St Moritz is one of the world’s most glamorous skiing resorts, but my hotel nailed laidback luxury

I’m a relatively novice skier, having only been on two ski trips previously – but ahead of my visit to St. Moritz, the reputation of the luxurious ski resort wasn’t lost on me. Its reputation preceded it, conjuring up words like opulence, glamour, and old-money chic. I wasn’t sure what to expect.

But as I boarded the first train from Zurich airport to the main train station, I quickly realised I was in for an extraordinary journey. I travelled the entire journey to the mountains on the train, starting at Zurich main station where I boarded the train to Chur, before changing for the Bernina Express – one of the world’s most celebrated scenic railways.

The UNESCO-listed ride weaves through stunning landscapes, charming valleys and majestic glaciers – along the way, I passed over 196 bridges and through 55 tunnels, covering an 80-mile stretch of history and natural beauty across the Albula and Bernina railway lines which run between Switzerland and Italy.

Three hours later, I reached my destination. St. Moritz, which is known for its glamorous past, is experiencing a renaissance of sorts – drawing a younger crowd eager to explore its air of heritage and exclusivity. Surprisingly, only a fraction of its visitors come for skiing – a mere 40%, in fact. The rest are here for many other attractions – one such thing is the Sun Ice Festival, now in its third year, which transforms the town into a hub of techno-loving enthusiasts, drawing a staggering 30,000 revellers from around the globe.

Snow Polo on lake St. Moritz

Giancarlo Cattaneo

Then there’s the snow polo, which could be described as St. Moritz’s official sport. The typically grassy game finds its frozen arena in this ultra-luxe Swiss ski town, where the annual Snow Polo World Tournament, which takes place on frozen lake St.Moritz, is now a cornerstone of St. Moritz’s winter calendar.


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