With the spliced central line’s shadowing and layered, labia-like red and pink frills wrapping around a small, cut-out opening, there’s no denying the vulva visual that these incredible dresses conjure up.
2. “OPEN HEART” CORSETS
Once we got over the jaw-dropping awe that comes only from witnessing Naomi Campbell do what she does best, we (somehow) dragged our focus from *those* cheekbones to her look.
Described by the brand as ‘an open heart corset with a sculpted hip in silver silk tulle with all-over glass bugle bead embroidery and a looped bugle bead skirt’, we couldn’t help but notice the recurrence of this open-hearted corset silhouette across a number of the collection’s other key pieces, moulding over the models’ breasts like armour.
3. BLOOD RED SYMBOLISM
A key symbol for the house has long been flowers, but for her final collection for the house Sarah re-interpreted her blood red roses via a more literal visual; with many floral prints appearing as though they were fresh blood stains.
This rawness was carried throughout the collection, with blood red a recurring theme. A particularly visceral iteration came via a nude gown with woven red embroidery depicting the innards of the female anatomy, as trailing red threads fell from the piece appearing as though they were drips of blood.
4. ANATOMICAL CUT-OUTS
Proving that she can adapt her feminine inspiration for tougher designs, Sarah’s exploration of anatomy continued throughout her sharp tailoring and chunky knitwear.
Mapping out the bones and organs of the human body via cut-outs and cleverly-looped stitching, this take on the collection’s key theme was a subtler – but no less impactful – feminist statement. Depicting the duality of womanhood, this development of Sarah’s anatomical dissection celebrates a less delicate side of femininity that mustn’t be overlooked.
As the announcement of Sarah’s successor was unveiled yesterday to be Seán McGirr, previously Head of Ready-to-Wear at JW Anderson – and Women’s Designer for Dries Van Noten before that – only time will tell how Alexander McQueen might look under a new vision.
If there’s one thing we do know, it’s that he has some incredibly big (white Nike) shoes to fill.
For more from Glamour UK’s Fashion Editor Charlie Teather, follow her on Instagram @charlieteather.