So one has to wonder, if people aren’t happy with these Instagram hairstylists, how are they staying booked? Most likely because they’re the ones advertising their ability to keep up with social media trends. Many independent hairstylists gain a huge social following based on their in-demand ability to create and execute viral hairstyles like boho braids, freestyle cornrows, and traditional sew-ins that look great in clients’ vacation photos.
When she went to her stylist, Georges wanted Fulani flip-over braids. The intricate style features cornrows, box braids, and loose boho curls, so Georges knew she had to find someone who specialised in the look. “I wanted to be trendy with everybody else, so I wanted to make sure whoever I went to could do that in the way that I wanted it to look,” says Georges.
Strict policies and astronomical deposits
Those trendy styles seem to come with a cost, both in higher prices and the mental gymnastics clients often have to do to navigate some of these Instagram stylists’ extensive policies on their booking sites. These rules or warnings will often include statements like, “A nonrefundable deposit is required to book, showing up with hair extensions different than the specified type on the site will result in automatic cancellation, and a fee will be charged for every minute you are late.”
With any appointment-based service, clients should expect some regulations that protect the time and resources of the business and also set expectations for the client. St. Cyr says the 15 policies on her site, which include “Hair not blown out straight as requested can lead to cancellation” and “Late fee of £30 after every 10 minutes,” are to “protect me. If a client doesn’t agree with my rules and regulations, then they shouldn’t book with me,” says St. Cyr.
Both Charles and St. Cyr have dealt with clients who have shown up more than an hour late or failed to come to appointments with their hair properly prepped (what “properly prepped” means is another point of contention among clients, but more on that in a minute).
If these protections for the stylist are in place, it’s reasonable to expect policies that protect the client’s time and money as well. I reviewed the policies of 10 prominent Instagram hairstylists and didn’t come across any that protected the client, like a guaranteed refund if the stylist is the one who has to cancel. Policies like declining service to a person with a certain hair type or requiring high deposits that are nonrefundable reinforce the sentiment that some Instagram hairstylists are only in it for the transaction and not the interaction. Since styling hair (and Black hair especially) is such an intimate process, this can leave the client feeling unsafe and dissuaded before they even book an appointment. “Trying to read the policies takes so much focus,” says one TikTok user commenting on a video about the topic. “It’s like a damn syllabus,” says another.
“I look at these policies and procedures and it just feels like it’s a lot of reprimanding, a lot of ego, and not putting the client first,” says Blissett Williams. “It outlines what will happen if you’re late, if you don’t show up, and all these don’ts, versus explaining what kind of experience the client can expect.” [Salon] 718’s policies are written in a clean, sans serif font — black text, white background — with minimal capitalisation. The tone is firm but professional, outlining fairly standard practices and, in many cases, explaining their purpose: “We kindly ask that any changes and cancellations are made 24 hours prior to your scheduled appointment” and “Out of respect for our guests, services for clients arriving more than 15 minutes late will be honoured at [salon] 718’s discretion.” Braided New York (another more traditional salon) simply prompts clients to call the salon for questions about policies.