Knotless braids have unapologetically dominated the natural hair community as one of the most popular protective styles and we can see why. As we know, textured hair is as complex as it is beautiful, that’s why protective hairstyles have been around for generations upon generations. Alongside looking delicately intricate, they allow those precious kinks and coils to be braided safely away from daily manipulation, breakage and split ends.
However, as reliable as braids, tight cornrows and locs can be, experts have warned us of the strain that certain styles can place on hair follicles and the tension they can create on scalps. In fact, Eleanor Richardson, consultant trichologist at Fulham Scalp & Hair Clinic warns: “The most common damage that we end up seeing in the clinic is traction [which is] a pulling force that’s been applied because of a very tight style. [This] may be due to very chunky braids, extensions, or weave-in styles that have been there for a while.”
If letting go of braids is not really an option, I’m with you – they’re an inextricable part of Black culture and will always play main character when it comes to natural hair styling. However, there are gentler alternatives to the classic box braids and they have been shaking the aunties-that-do-hair to the core.
Knotless braids have been the moment for a while and are still very much the moment now. Considered by many to be ‘low-tension’, the style has developed a league of A-list followers including Beyonce, Zendaya, Yara Shahidi, and Laura Harrier.
We spoke to braid queen and celebrity hairstylist, Molecia George, whose clients include Leigh-Anne Pinnock, Katerina Johnson Thompson, and Jourdan Dunn. Here she explains everything you need to know about knotless braids below.
What are knotless braids?
“Knotless braids are exactly what they’re called – braids without knots,” says Molecia. “Traditional box braids have a knot at the start where the extension is added at the beginning,” she explains. “Knotless is where the braid is started off with your hair and then you feed the extension through as you go along, creating a knotless look. It’s a trendier way of doing braids for clients who don’t like the knot look at the beginning of the braids. It’s a very sleek and natural-looking way of braiding,” she says.
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Why would you choose knotless braids over traditional box braids?
“As a braider, both ways of braiding have pros and cons,” says Molecia, but here are the benefits of knotless braids:
- Knotless braids are gentler: Knotless braids are perfect for clients with sensitive scalps as there is little to no tension. This can help prevent traction alopecia and supports healthier scalps and hair retention.
- They enable you to style immediately: Unlike traditional styles which can take a day or two to loosen up, this style is perfect to put in a bun and style straight away
- They do last a relatively long time: Depending on how quick your hair growth is, they can last for a long time – up to eight-to-ten weeks.
- Knotless braids are trendier: In terms of style, knotless braids are definitely trendier, literally giving you neater braids.
- They enable you to care for your scalp more easily: This style makes it easier to access and to moisturise your scalp.