We pay a lot of attention to the front of our hair. For instance, curtain bangs and face-framing layers get a lot of air time. Then there’s length. That generally gets plenty of consideration. As for when the stylist asks “how would you like your shape at the back?” Ummmmmmm? Yeah, we’re not too sure about that one.
Unlike bob shapes, where we have A-line, asymmetrical, blunt, French and a whole wardrobe of styles to choose from, things get a little more confusing past our shoulders. We can’t be the only ones scouting for some inspo because the hashtag #hair360 (which shows creators spanning the back and sides of their hair), has accumulated over 26 million views on TikTok.
It makes sense that we’re wanting to get the back right since what’s happening back there comes into play when we pull it forward. “The back of the hair should be dictated by the overall length and look wanting to be achieved,” says Ricky Walter’s, Founder of SALON64. “Remember the hair that sits at the back is usually pushed forward to also create the front of the look and therefore must work for both.”
We spoke to top stylists for their advice on shaping the back of our hair. Here’s some styles to consider….
The subtle ‘V’
This is where the layers join at a point to form a ‘V’ at the back of the hair and, according to the stylists, it’s a bit of a controversial one. “Having a ‘V’ shape cut in at the back often means there’s very little weight when pushed to the front and that can result in skinny-looking hair,” warns Ricky. Plus, if the front is too overly layered, it can look old-fashioned, agrees celeb hair stylist, Stefan Bertin, SheaMoisture UK ambassador.
That said, when done delicately, it can look incredible. The 70s hair revamp that’s set to be huge this summer is bringing the style back with a deliberate, modern twist. “We don’t love really obvious ‘V’s,” say Sean and Nick, the top London stylists behind The Hair Bros. “But, we’re quite big fans of this subtle looking V shape,” they add. Think a Farrah Fawcett cut, combined with smooth waves. The trick is to keep is soft. “It’s all about softness and keeping it less harsh (so no blunt choppy layers). Keep everything rounded and blended, so it’s cohesive and flattering to any hair length, whether it’s straight, wavy or curly,” agrees Dom Seeley, International Creative Director at Color Wow.
The horseshoe or ‘U’ cut
“I love experimenting with different techniques to encourage a fresher, more current style while maintaining length,” says Nicholas Hardwick, Principal Stylist at Josh Wood Colour. “My favourite is shortening the layers towards the front of the haircut resulting in a ‘horseshoe shape’ through the length. Depending on how long your hair is, this can be anything from a bit of face framing to collarbone-length sections and opens up the very important front area (face, neck, chest etc) beautifully,” he adds.
Away from the front-framing sections, though, just make sure you don’t take the outside edge of the back too short. “If you cut into hair past the shoulders at the back, you are essentially cutting off the “corners” in the hair. This is the area of hair that falls just behind your shoulder and when pulled forward, sits at the front to give you a nice shape,” says Dom. “Again, if you are opting for a ‘U Shape’ keep it soft.”
The deep ‘V’
According to hair stylist, Indra Michel, this is the haircut that “almost every sexy Latina with long hair asks for.” To keep it modern and give enough definition at the front, she starts the shortest layer on the shoulder blade at the back, so it’ll skim collarbones when pulled to the front. It gives that sexy, wispy fantasy hair vibe that celebs like Kim Kardashian and JLo have been experimenting with recently. Just make sure it’s a style you want to stick to as it can be stubborn to grow out if you want to switch to a blunt cut soon after, says Dom.
Super blunt
For shorter cuts, you won’t need to rely so much on layers for volume, which is why a blunt cut works beautifully.”A ‘V’ or ‘U’ shape usually complements slightly layered hair, as it can add dimension,” says celebrity hairstylist, Dionne Smith. “But a straight line works well with someone who wears her hair in a one-length style,” she says, so for bobs and lobs, it can work beautifully.
The soft curve
“For longer hair I would recommend a soft curve at the back,” says Ricky. One TikTok creator, @amyjanexm explained “I ask for round layers,” when she gets her haircut. Her hair features a soft, curved baseline, however, for volume she noted “I ask for the top [internal] layers to be a lot shorter than the bottom.”
Long and blunt
“I like the back to be cut straight across as it helps hair look relatively healthy even if it’s not and it also suits all hair densities and types,” says Stefan. However, to keep it from looking too heavy at the front, it’s a good idea to get some face-framing layers cut in.
Shaggy
The shag is back, big time. Rather than taking a delicate approach to layers, here, the more the merrier. “The key thing that makes a shag a shag is layers around the crown and the sides as well as the front to get that volume more towards the roots,” says top hair stylist, Luke Hersheson. “The shorter those layers are, the more extreme the look is.” Either way, here you want them to be more choppy and visible to give loads of texture.
Curly
“The best styles for curls often means even shorter layers as this will enhance the curl,” says top hair stylist, Larry King. “This will allow curls to spring up and not be weighed down by excess length. Ask your stylist to cut your hair from wet to dry, so they can see the shape forming while the curls take their natural form and to allow for shrinkage when dry,” he adds.
A-Line
An A-line bob ends longer at the front than at the back. The bonus is that the added length at the front curls under your chin, framing your features, enhancing bone structure and elongating your neck. It can be as steep or as subtle as you like, but to give the illusion of full, thick hair, a shorter cut at the back works best. To get that really rounded shape, your stylist will thin it with scissors before tapering the back section and removing weight with a razor. The result in a bouncy, voluminous finish.
Internal layers
For the most natural-looking movement while retaining your length at the back, Dom recommends keep everything soft with no hard lines and no blunt straight across cuts. Instead, focus on wispy and invisible “ghost layers” he says.
“Always ask your stylist to point cut to remove only weight, so you keep the length but remove bulk. This helps hair move and gives it life when hair layers fall,” he says. “You don’t want to see the layers within the haircut, they should blend in and aid in styling, adding interest and movement to your haircut,” he adds. The bonus is that it’s low effort with minimal maintenance.
For more from GLAMOUR’s Deputy Beauty Editor, Elle Turner follow her on Instagram @elleturneruk.